欣賞一枚好的胸針

除了品玩它的

形態(tài)、材質(zhì)、色彩、手感之外

還有一個引人入勝的細(xì)節(jié)：

背針的設(shè)計(jì)與執(zhí)行

就內(nèi)涵和美學(xué)而言

背針是胸針的重要組成部分

它不僅具有功能性

更是一種交流方式

「名家書薦」第七期，我們邀請到了

來自中國的首飾藝術(shù)家 Xiaochen Liu

為大家推薦一本

關(guān)于胸針背針設(shè)計(jì)的百科全書

藝術(shù)家 / Artist

 Xiaochen LIU 

中國當(dāng)代首飾藝術(shù)家劉曉辰，碩士畢業(yè)于上海大學(xué)美術(shù)學(xué)院首飾設(shè)計(jì)專業(yè)。她的創(chuàng)作注重個人記憶、生活經(jīng)歷與情感表達(dá)，主要研究方向?yàn)槭罪椗c藝術(shù)治療。作品曾多次在國內(nèi)外參展，如21克——2018杭州當(dāng)代國際首飾與金屬藝術(shù)三年展，JOYA 2018巴塞羅那藝術(shù)首飾與物品展覽等?，F(xiàn)任AIVA國際視覺藝術(shù)教育導(dǎo)師。

Xiaochen Liu is a Chinese contemporary jewellery artist who holds a master's degree in jewelry design from Shanghai Academy of Fine Arts. Her creation comes from personal memory, life experiences and emotional expressions, mainly focusing on jewelry and art therapy.  Her works were shown in exhibitions home and abroad, such as 21 grams - Hangzhou International Contemporary Jewelry and Metal Arts Triennials, JOYA Barcelona Jewellery & Objeects.  She currently teaches at AIVA.

藝術(shù)家推薦書籍

Recommended Book

To The Point

《見端知末》

Author: Daniela Malev

Hardcover: 266 pages

X：《To The Point》是一本專門講解藝術(shù)首飾中胸針背針的各種存在形式的書。在AIVA的金工課程中，我們會統(tǒng)一教學(xué)最基本、最常用的單針和雙針的背針形式，而在實(shí)際的創(chuàng)作中，通常需要作者在滿足這些基本結(jié)構(gòu)要求的情況下根據(jù)自己的胸針特性去設(shè)計(jì)自己背針。這本書收集了大量藝術(shù)家的胸針作品作為實(shí)例，詳細(xì)的為我們歸納、羅列出了背針的各種可能性。

X: To The Point is a book that has gathered and illustrated various forms of brooch pin back.  In the silversmith short course in AIVA, we introduce the most common and basic forms of pin back to our students. However, during the process of actual creation, it is often that the creator has to design or invent the form of the pin back according to the characteristics of one’s own brooch. This book has shown the audience numerous examples from the works by various artists. The possibilities of pin backs are listed and categorized in this book.

X：現(xiàn)在能買到的應(yīng)該是圖上這款改版后的樣子。從封面上就能看到不同的藍(lán)色線框圖形和色塊，每一個圖形和色塊其實(shí)都分別代表了從形式和內(nèi)容定義上被區(qū)分出來的不同背針類型。給大家看一下目錄，按照封面的顏色標(biāo)記出了每一種類型的名稱，方便讀者快速的翻頁查找。在每一個章節(jié)的扉頁上也會對該類別的背針進(jìn)行詳細(xì)的定義，幫助大家理解這個分類的具體指向和范疇。

X: This photo shows the new edition of this book. On the cover the categories of pin backs are shown with square-shaped linear graphs.  If you look at the table of content, you will find that categories of pin backs are sorted by color, making it easy for readers to search through the content. In the introduction of each chapter the editor defined the category with great details, helping readers to understand the scope and purpose of the pin backs in this category.   

X：每一種類型的背針介紹里都列舉了大量首飾藝術(shù)家的胸針作品作為實(shí)例進(jìn)行展示，讀者可以在這本書中看到一些平時熟悉的胸針作品的背面或者是背針的細(xì)節(jié)圖和手繪的背針結(jié)構(gòu)解析圖等。如果你有一定的金工基礎(chǔ)，可以從這些介紹中了解到這些背針應(yīng)該如何被制作出來，也能從這些實(shí)例中看到每一位藝術(shù)家是怎樣來設(shè)計(jì)他們的背針，讓背針與胸針融合為一個整體的。此外，在每一種背針介紹的最后都會集中展示胸針作者本人對自己作品的介紹。

X: In each category there are vast number of examples by many artists.  Readers might be able to see some familiar master pieces and their back structure.  Some of the example shown come with diagrams that one can easily see the logic of design.  If you have background in silversmithing, it won’t be difficult to see how those pin backs were actually made.  You will also see how artists arrange the pin backs so a pin back really becomes an integrated part of the brooch. At the end of each chapter there will be a section where the artists’ introductions of the shown pieces are listed.

X：后面還有關(guān)于系列胸針作品的介紹以及胸針背針制作的基礎(chǔ)技術(shù)指導(dǎo)，以文字加手繪圖的方法幫助讀者普及一些在胸針背針制作中需要了解的通用基礎(chǔ)技術(shù)問題。這里就不詳細(xì)拍攝出來了，大家想了解的話可以購買觀看，個人覺得還是非常值得的。希望這個推薦對大家有幫助。

X: In the end there are also basic instructions for making pin backs. Text and hand-drawn graphs explain difficulties that the reader might encounter during the process of making.  Please check out the book if you want to know more. I personally think it is a good deal and I hope this recommendation will help all of you who are learning silversmithing.

AIVA Gallery與Uclc當(dāng)代首飾訂閱號攜手，為大家開啟To The Point 購買通道。本書代購價格為CNY 356元，運(yùn)費(fèi)另計(jì)（國際+國內(nèi)運(yùn)費(fèi)約30元，需等待集中發(fā)貨）。如有需要的小伙伴，可聯(lián)系本公眾號后臺。

原來胸針的背面

  也藏著大學(xué)問！

對于當(dāng)代首飾愛好者來說

這絕對是本不容錯過的背針寶典

 感興趣的小伙伴速速去一探究竟吧~

Xiaochen的作品

也常常以胸針作為載體

她基于“藝術(shù)療法”

以藝術(shù)為媒介，

表達(dá)內(nèi)心的思緒、感受和經(jīng)驗(yàn)

讓我們一起來感受一下

她的作品在向我們訴說什么吧

作品介紹 / Works

< Lonely Day 一個人的日子>

paper, resin, plastic, paillette, 

sterling silver, copper, nylon thread

作為一名致力于藝術(shù)治療的首飾藝術(shù)家，Xiaochen通過她的系列作品《一個人的日子》試圖直面童年的創(chuàng)傷。作為中國特別的一代獨(dú)生子女，童年的孤寂是一個顯而易見的現(xiàn)象。在Xiaochen的成長過程中，漫畫書扮演了朋友的角色，起到了陪伴作用。它幫助她消磨時光，同時也滲入她的靈魂，鑄成她的血肉，成就了現(xiàn)在的Xiaochen —— 一個對生活充滿了漫畫式幻想的理想主義者。

As a jewellery artist devoting to Art Therapy, Xiaochen tried to confront her wound from childhood by her series of work "Lonely Day". As the birth-control generation, loneliness had a dominant presence in her childhood.  Comic books played a significant role in Xiaochen's growth.  It has consumed her time and penetrated into her soul, transformed to become her body and made her who she is today – an idealist full of comic fantasies about real life.

Xiaochen 把兒時翻閱的漫畫書紙張作為創(chuàng)作的材料來塑造作品的主體外型，它以首飾的形式附庸于身體之上，成為連接人體的一個部分。Xiaochen把它看作是自己內(nèi)心世界的一種外露，這不僅需要時間，還需要勇氣。

In this series of work, Xiaochen used pages from childhood comic books as the main material to create the main body.  When it wears on the chest as a piece of jewellery, it seems to become a part of her body and a vessel to expose the internal self. It takes time and courage to heal.

Other Works

Stessed Out

sterling silver

 

 

Craving Toad

finger wear experimentation

sterling silver, citrine

 

 

Spooky Owl

finger wear experimentation

sterling silver, copper, garnet

創(chuàng)作的過程本身也是一種療愈

藝術(shù)家通過藝術(shù)治療的方式

結(jié)合心理學(xué)與哲學(xué)理論自我剖析

展開自我治療的藝術(shù)實(shí)踐

踏上了一場深入內(nèi)心世界的旅程

往期圖書推薦：

名家書薦 Elena Martinelli | 

領(lǐng)略首飾背后的工藝魅力

名家書薦 Ziyi Yang | 

從審美意識探究東方美學(xué)之魂

名家書薦 Bin Dixon-Ward | 

運(yùn)用之妙，存乎一心

下一期

我們會為大家

帶來另一位藝術(shù)家和愛書的故事

敬請期待

Stay tuned

for more jewellery artists &

their book recommendation

愿好書覓到更多知音